Our technicians are the industry's clutching specialists, racing and riding with our products year round. They know snowmobile and ATV drivelines inside and out - clutches, chains, sprockets, helixes, u-joints and more. And they test and use all the major brands - Polaris, Arctic Cat, Ski-Doo, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki & Honda. So, when it comes to snowmobile & ATV performance, our techs have the answers.

We plan on regularly presenting technical tips for snowmobiles and ATV's. See the list on the left for our current Tech Tips archive list. Select any tip in the list to view it. Feel free to print these Tech Tips out to save for future use, or check back here regularly to view new tips as they are added.

Remember, these are strictly Tech Tips. Feel free to contact our technicians directly with any part-specific, or application-specific questions.  Call 218-829-6036 for assistance.

Tech Tip #10:  "No top end?!?"

We frequently receive calls with the concern, "I have no top end". Often people assume it is caused by clutching. Naturally, if your machine isn't reaching it's horsepower peak, or it is over-revving, then it could be clutching. However, it is more likely to be caused by some form of chassis drag. One of more of the following could be the culprit:

• Deep lug tracks: These tracks take more power to turn as they are typically heavier and have greater rolling resistance. They holeshot and perform much better in the snow, but a small sacrifice of top speed will be present on icy lakes or hard packs.

• Hifax: Low snow conditions are murder on the hifax. Bare lakes will heat and melt standard hifax in a big hurry! As they get hot, it's just like putting on the brakes.

• Track alignment and tension: Consult your owners manual for proper adjustment procedures. Tracks that are too tight cause excessive drag and premature hifax wear.

• Longer travel suspensions: Machines with extra long travel suspensions, such as M-10's, etc., will normally have a bit less top speed due to the additional attack angle of the track from the driveshaft. Again, a small price to pay for additional ride quality in the rough.

• Ski pressure/carbide: Often when running on ice it is common to put wearbars on with more carbide. While great for turning quickly, the combination of these with a bit too much ski pressure can scrub off MPH.

• Bearings: If your machine is a bit older it could have a bearing or two dragging due to wear. Most commonly, it's the idler wheel bearings, but occasionally it could be jackshaft or driveshaft. If they don't spin freely, replace them.

There is no substitute for displacement, good maintenance and Great Clutching. But, if you lack in the top end department, be sure to check your chassis too!